I spent the weekend at the Yunnan Minorities Park, a sort of human zoo meant to showcase the variety of ethnic groups found in the province. The stated purpose of the park is to inform people about the variety of ethnic groups found in Yunnan province, numerically the most diverse in China. What it actually accomplished was more akin to a certain robotic performance at Disneyworld.
The first lesson of the minorities village is that the most important part of any civilization is its clothing. In many cases, clothing was the only reliable indicator of what ethnic group one was actually viewing, as the quaint grass huts and overpriced drink stands tended to blend together from place to place. Also, I imagine that while hunting was an important activity for many groups, extorting foreigners through bow and arrow rentals is a relatively modern practice.
A few hours of walking also made evident the low production values of the place. Virtually all of the ethnic groups represented had a dance. Virtually none of the dancers knew the dance that supposedly embodied their entire culture. The grand showing consisted mainly of folks trotting about warily, one person in front moving with just enough determination as to not look completely silly with the rest of the folks trailing behind like kindergartners not sure if they should follow some greasy guy into his Volkswagen. Again, the costumes were the main distinguishing feature. Most of the people groups would be hard to tell apart without the giant flags attached to their bodies--otherwise, the listless meandering of the Dai was largely indistinguishable from the listless meandering of the Bai or Hui.
During the low point (or high point, depending on how you look at it) of the production, a group of peacocks on top of a cloth screen were wheeled out to center stage. While the birds sat with their tailfeathers hidden, doing nothing and looking like overgrown pheasants, "performers" with foil on their fingers popped their hands above the screen in the bird beak position, moved them left, moved them right, and wheeled the birds out again.
The performance concluded with another meandering line, this time overshadowed by a big screen projection of people doing the same dance only with some semblance of synchronicity and talent, like if the preliminary rounds of "So You Think You Can Dance" all had Michael Jackson footage in the background so everyone would know, objectively, how bad the first-rounders blew it.
So, a totally terrible experience? Actually, not entirely. As a first-timer it was definitely novel, and I expect a certain level of hucksterism at a national tourist attraction. What was depressing, though, was how reflective the park was of national policies regarding minorities.
First, consider the clothes. For many exhibits clothing was the only distinguishing feature between the various ethnic groups. Sadly, this often transfers over to government. Minority representatives to government frequently appear in their minority costumes, even though everyone else wears a suit and tie. Imagine if we appointed an ambassador to the Native Americans and then expected him to show up to Congress in a buckskin breechflap. Now, it's not clear whether this practice is required by the government or preferred by the minorities, but either way the message is clear--give up your appearance and your uniqueness disappears entirely. Of course, real cultures don't disappear when their people put on modern dress. Native Americans don't turn in their registration when they put on a T-shirt and jeans, just like German Americans, Chinese Americans, or African Americans don't cut all ties with their home countries when they refrain from prancing around in lederhosen, Mao shirts, or grass skirts. The fact that people act like this is the case suggests that something other than the real culture is being represented.
Take for example the kinds of information represented in the village exhibits. Most of the sections included a two-by-two wooden plaque attempting to summarize the whole of the culture's origin, nature, and religion. Lots of attention is given to methods of food cultivation, which was of course important in ancient times but considerably less so now when most of these cultures do things in either the modern or the common way (much of Chinese food production is decidedly not modern, using animal and hand labor, but very little of it is unique). A short footnote on religion highlights the quaint but outdated philosophy of the ancient people (the Lahu people think they're descended from gourds! How cute is that!)--in short, painting the ethnic philosophy as charming but utterly impractical. Again, this is not how real cultures function. Religions that are actually practiced either adapt or fade away. None of the Lahu I know actually believe this about their ancestry, but you would never know this from the park, or the government. Or, take for example modern Judaism. Many branches of modern Judaism are abstract bordering on atheistic (or even explicitly atheistic), but the religion has still found a way to reconcile modern thinking with ancient traditions. Even if this reconciliation occurs through simple denial or militant opposition, it will occur. The fact that this reconcilation is nowhere to be seen is yet another reflection on the government's brush-off mentality in dealing with minorities.
I shudder to think of how much of this type of "diversity" we practice in America. How often do our practices boil down to "wear your funny clothes and do your little dance, but try to have a say in how I think or act and I will break you." When things really matter, there can't just be "tolerance." There must be dialogue and compromise, assertion and acquiescence. Often, the language of tolerance has the unintended consequence of pushing true dialogue out of the realm of appropriate conversation.
Tolerance is great for when things really don't matter. Skin color, national origin, frosting preferences--most people would agree that only a belligerent moron would view these things as legitimately controversial topics. And, we shouldn't write off entire people or groups because of a few deviant opinions--tolerance can be a very helpful form of "agreeing to disagree." But when things really do matter, we should be kind enough to let people have a say, and respectful enough to say something against it if we feel led--to let these people and opinions be real parts of our society instead of holing them up in a theme park. Here's hoping we can all have lives and cultures richer than what we wear and how we dance.